In a time before accurate weather forecasting, cleared forest roads, technical climbing gear and trail maps these brave individuals driven by something deep within set out to climb some of the most iconic peaks in the country. August just happened to be the most popular time for many. We went through years of history, news clippings, lengthy articles, and contentious claims to bring you these unique stories. 

We fully acknowledge that these are the documented first ascents by europeans and many of these peaks were explored and possibly summited by the native people living in around these majestic peaks. With that, let's dig in to what has been documented starting in early August and progressing through the month.

Mt. Hood from Government Camp

AUGUST 6, 1857 

MT. HOOD

FIRST ASCENT

Thomas Dryer, founder of The Oregonian newspaper claimed to have been the first to summit Mt. Hood along with several other individuals on August 25, 1854 . However, Dryers account of the ascent which he published in the paper had many flaws, including citing the presence of volcanic vents at the summit. His claims have been disputed by many historians and is believed that he never reached the true summit but was several hundred yards short. Three years later on August 6, 1857 Henry Pittock at 22 years old would lead a team of four (L.J. Powell, William S. Buckley, W. Lyman Chittenden, and James Deardorff) to the summit of Mt. Hood via The Old Chute route. Pittock’s description of the mountain and landmarks helped bolster his claim of being the first to reach the true summit. A member of Pittocks team would later publish an article in a rival paper disputing Dryers claim. Dryer shot back in an editorial disputing Pittocks story and so began one of the great beefs of the 19th century.

Did we mention that Pittock was employed by The Oregonian when he first summited the mountain? He would get the last laugh when he later became Dryers successor and took control of the newspaper in 1860. Pittock would climb the mountain three more times in his life and became a founding member of the Mazamas, a non-profit mountaineering educational organization founded in 1894 that is still climbing strong today. 

A great video from our friends at OPB dives into the history of climbing Mt. Hood in depth and the amazing accomplishments of the women and men of the Mazamas below:

Mt. Washington

AUGUST 7, 1870

MT. WASHINGTON

FIRST ONE-LEGGED ASCENT

Tahoma / Mt. Rainier, 1900

AUGUST 10, 1890

MT. RAINIER

FIRST FEMALE ASCENT

Inspired by Van Trump who first reached the summit in 1870, Fay Fuller would become the first woman to make the ascent on August 10, 1890. The twenty year old journalist and teacher from Yelm, Washington would reach the summit accompanied by Van Trump, Hazard Stevens and two others. She used charcoal to blacken her face on the climb to protect herself from the sun, wore goggles, a thick flannel bloomer and boys shoes. The group left from Camp Muir at 4:30am and would reach the summit at 4pm. Having reached the peak so late in the day the group decided it was best to spend the night at the summit. They would shelter in an ice cave which had been formed by steam vents as well. At 6:30am the next morning the group successfully descended down icy slopes through gale winds. Fay would go on to be a founding member of the Washington Alpine Club and the Mazamas. Mount Rainier's Fay Peak is now named after her.

Fay Fuller

Fay would go on to be a founding member of the Washington Alpine Club and the Mazamas. Mount Rainier's Fay Peak is now named after her.

Mazama women, 1896

Tetons, 1872

August 11, 1898

GRAND TETON

FIRST ASCENT

On August 11, 1898  William Owen, Franklin Spalding, Frank Petersen, and John Shive would be the first to document their climb to the summit via their own route, now the 5.4 Owen–Spalding.

Owen - Spalding Route, 1898

William Owen, John Shive, Frank Petersen at the summit

Who reached the summit first is still up for debate and shrouded in controversy. In July 1872, Nathaniel Langford, James Stevenson and members of the 14-person Hayden Expedition claimed to have summited the Grand Teton. However, when Willam Owen and his expedition reached the summit some 26 years later they saw no sign of a previous ascent. This was odd since members of the Langford and Stevenson expeditions typically built cairns at the summit. After reviewing Langfords description and sketches of the climb many believe it matches that of The Enclosure, a side peak of the Grand Teton. 

Although we may never definitively know who was first to reach the top, we do know Owen and Spalding were the first to document their summit. A plaque commemorating their ascent would be placed on the summit in 1929 only to be stolen in 1977, further adding to the controversy. 

Owen (middle) and the plaque commemorating his first ascent

Owen at 64 years old, Grand Teton summit, August 1925

Mount Shasta

AUGUST 14, 1854

MT. SHASTA

FIRST ASCENT

Elias Pierce of Yreka California would become the first person to reach the summit of Mount Shasta on August 14, 1854 after several earlier failed attempts. Elias was originally from West Virginia but moved to California during the gold rush.  He and a group of eight climbers left camp on the south side of the mountain that morning and navigated rough terrain. As later described they “Were obliged in many places to climb from crag to crag as best we could. The least misstep, or the detaching of the smallest piece of rock upon which we were obliged to cling for life.” They would reach the summit at 11:30am and by 12pm they planted an American flag, had some “refreshments” and began the descent.

Elias Pierce

The first group of women to climb Mt. Shasta would led by Harriette Eddy and Mary Campbell McCloud who would reach the summit on September 16, 1856. Leaving from their camp at 6am it would take them ten hours to reach the summit at around 4pm. The group would plant a flag and leave a bible at the peak before making their way back to camp, arriving back at 10pm.

Mount Baker from Oak Bay, B.C.

AUGUST 17, 1868

MT. BAKER

FIRST ASCENT

After two previous unsuccessful attempts to climb Mt. Baker to the Grant's Peak summit, Edmund Coleman would make his first successful mission on August 17, 1868. The group of five climbers would be in part guided by four members of the Lummi Reservation. The group left from Nooksack on August 7th, it would take the group 14 days to complete their mission. They packed light and only brought canvas tents, rubber tarps, pans, ropes and wool socks. Their menu was even more basic, consisting of only tea, bread, and bacon. Leaving their final camp at 5am the morning of the 17th they would reach the summit at 4pm to plant a flag and leave a copper plate with their names on it. Coleman would make it back home by the 22nd to telegraph his story out to the world.

The group planting a flag at the summit, Grants Peak

Mt. Rainier

AUGUST 17, 1870

MT. RAINIER

FIRST ASCENT

On August 17, 1870 Philemon Beecher Van Trump and Hazard Stevens would become the first documented party to reach the summit of Tahoma, know today as Mt. Rainier. He was led part of the way by a Native American guide and hunter, Sluiskin. They set up camp at what is today known as Sluiskin Falls the day before making their daring climb. After hiking for 11 hours the group reached the summit at 5pm. Unprepared for a multi day trip, they were was forced to spend the night on top of the mountain, luckily the team of climbers located a small cavern from which jets of hot steam and smoke could be seen. As they thought they would complete the round trip in one day they did not bring extra food or blankets. They survived by spending the night in the warmth of the cave. They left a brass plate containing their names on the summit and began their descent. Van Trump would suffer a minor injury during the descent after falling on sharp rocks but would ultimately return safely to camp. 

Van Trump would make three more trips to the summit during his life. He would guide John Muir, the founder of the Sierra Club on a trip to the summit in 1888. They would go on to work together in advocating for the national park status of Mount Rainier which came to be in 1899. The Van Trump Park, Creek, and Glacier on Mount Rainier are all named after him. 

Marianne Sinclair & Ty Kearney 

AUGUST 17, 1947

MT. HOOD

FIRST MOUNTAIN BIKE RIDE

AUGUST 23, 1868

LONGS PEAK

FIRST ASCENT 

Maroon Bells

AUGUST 25, 1908

MAROON PEAK

FIRST ASCENT

Mt. Hood 1904

AUGUST 26, 1867

MT. HOOD

FIRST FEMALE ASCENT

Fannie Case from and Mary Robinson would become the first women to reach the summit of Mt. Hood on August 26, 1867. They would be accompanied by David Powell and John Garrison. An article of their story would appear in The Oregonian years later. 

Case daughters, Fannie Case far right, 1870

Mount St. Helens from Spirit Lake

AUGUST 26, 1853

MOUNT SAINT HELENS

FIRST ASCENT

On August 26, 1853 the Oregonian editor Thomas J. Dryer would become the first documented person to summit Mount St. Helens along with three others. The same Dryer who would later be disputed about his claim to have first reached the summit of Mt. Hood. The group would ascend up the south side on the 25th and make camp for the night. They would reach the summit the next afternoon, which was 1,300 feet higher than it is today. Upon reaching the summit Dryer observed how “The smoke was continually issuing from its mouth, giving unmistakable evidence that the fire was not extinguished”. A observation that would prove true on May 18, 1980. The group would build a pyramid of loose stones and then safely return to camp at 4pm. It would take them four more days to reach home. The Dryer Glacier is now named in his honor. 

Grand Teton, August 1872

AUGUST 27, 1923

GRAND TETON

FIRST FEMALE ASCENT 

Eleanor Davis of Colorado would become the first woman to reach the summit accompanied by Albert Ellingwood. As if that wasn't enough, they would make another first recorded climb two days later summiting the South Teton. Eleanor would also be credited for making the first ascent of Crestone Needles in 1916.

Eleanor Davis (seated) at Sentinel Rocks

August was a special month for many of the peaks that inspire us here at North. We raise a glass to the women and men that set the routes that we all aspire to follow today. Cheers!